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Jakarta..oh Jakarta…

I was born and lived in Jakarta (Indonesia) for nearly 25 years. Having been away from Jakarta for years and now living in its sister city, Rotterdam (the Netherlands), sadly, I see Jakarta is still facing the same problem it had when I left the city. In fact, the problems are getting worse. I see three main city problems that make me reluctant to visit my family in Jakarta.

First problem is traffic jams. This year, Jakarta is crowned by Castrol’s Magnatec index as the city in the world with the worst traffic jams. Manila and Bangkok, you can be relieved, Jakarta is the king of traffic jams in the South East Asia region. When asked by my Dutch friends how I survived driving to work through Rotterdam’s traffic during peak hours, I responded it was because I was used driving in the worst traffic jams in the world! Rotterdam is ranked number two as the best city for traffic jam by the same index. The traffic jam in Rotterdam is nothing compared to Jakarta.

The second problem is flooding. Flooding is an annual event (disaster) in Jakarta. Since it happens every year I cannot remember a year known for having the worst flooding. Perhaps it was in  2007 when my parent’s house was flooded up to 1.5 meter. The flooding is widespread, not only in the residential area, school and public roads but also reaching to the Indonesian’s Presidential Palace. Jakarta lost millions of dollars due to flooding. The flooding is so bad, Jakarta residents just start making fun of it. Someone distributed a movie via social media of how fun it was driving on the flood. Meanwhile others created a meme of how Jakarta’s flooding was actually initiated by a Godzilla and finally a Japanese comic hero, Ultraman came to the rescue.

The third problem is inequality. Sha from Life to My Fullest in her post  noted Jakarta as a city of contrast. Jakarta has numerous luxurious apartment towers, malls and office buildings but with the slums at their backyard. The economic and social gap in Jakarta is tragic and sad.

These three are classic problems of big cities in developing countries. Compared to Rotterdam, Jakarta is certainly a bigger city with its metro population of 28 million people and the city itself has 10 million people. It’s not easy to “fix” Jakarta.

 Despite of the mentioned problems, there are several things that I like about Jakarta.

  • Jakarta has numerous shopping malls. If you love to shop, Jakarta offers variety of shopping and they are available from luxurious to budget. One thing that I like about the shopping malls in Jakarta is they have everything from groceries to cinema. These type of shopping malls do not exist in the Netherlands.
  • The city has unique history. Harindabama wrote an interesting post about it on Tracing Jakarta’s History. The place that he mentions are my favorite places in Jakarta for photography.
  • Jakarta has delicious local dishes. I love Soto Betawi, the soto (soup) broth is made from lemongrass, beef broth, coconut milk with ginger and galangal. Delicious! Additionally, the best snack in Jakarta is Kerak Telor. You cannot find Kerak Telor in other islands except in Java! Backpacker Lee who has tasted this food agrees with me 😉 Please check his post on Jakarta’s Kerak Telor. Kerak telor is also available at the cafes in the shopping malls if you don’t like buying food from  the street food stalls. Some pictures of Kerak Telor by Backpacker Lee.

If you are going to visit Jakarta, then the following tips can help make your visit in Jakarta a more comfortable

  • Avoid visiting Jakarta in early January to early March. These months are the heavy rainy season thus Jakarta mostly is under water.
  • Avoid traveling around Jakarta during the peak hours and rainy days. Rains means longer traffic jam than usual and to make it worse, taxis are usually rare to find. I talked to several taxi drivers and they admitted that they avoid driving during rainy days because the traffic is worse than usual.
  • Best travel time to be in Jakarta is by the end of Ramadan month (fasting month for Muslims), the week of Ied Fitr (the Muslim’s festive after the Ramadan) and the Christmas week. Shopping malls are still open but most Jakarta’s residents being majority immigrants, are away to visit their families outside of Jakarta. That leaves the city half empty during those weeks – less cars and motorbikes!
  • Choose a hotel that is close to the places of your travel interests so you can just walk or take auto rickshaw (called as “Bajaj” locally). Bajaj in Jakarta ran by electricity or natural gas, at least they are environment friendly unlike most cars in Jakarta. Morrissey Hotel in the Central of Jakarta has a special bajaj with driver to bring you to the nearby tourist attractions, just check this hotel if you are planning to stick around in the center of Jakarta.

Also please read these interesting posts and photos by WordPress Bloggers for more information about Jakarta and what the city looked like.

30 Hours of Rain in Jakarta by Arnaldo Pellini

A Day in Jakarta by Backpacker Lee

Coping with Jakarta’s Traffic Jams by Sha’s Life to My Fullest

Jakarta on A Sunday by Harindabama

Ramadan in Indonesia by Ramblings of an Indonesian Woman

Would I recommend travelers to visit Jakarta for holiday?

I wish I could say : “Yes, do visit Jakarta! It is my hometown and I am proud of it!”, but the answer is: “If you don’t have to, then no, do not visit Jakarta.” Skip Jakarta, go travel and visit other islands in Indonesia. I don’t see Jakarta as an excellent choice for city trip holiday destination. Maybe five years from now Jakarta is improving. But yeah, maybe.

157 Comments »

  1. I love how honest and open you are about how you feel about your hometown. It would be all to easy to give it a glowing a review. But I can see that it’s hard for you to do that… The traffic and the flooding issue looks such a terrible thing for the people to have to deal with. Soto Betawi looks amazing – can you cook it?

    • It is hard to recommend the city – especially for travelers who traveled for more than 10 hours to visit Indonesia – maybe Jakarta should not be their first stop. Unfortunately I can’t cook 😦 I feel ashamed about this, but my mother will come soon so I expect her to cook the soto for me 😀 😀

  2. Oh yes, the Jakarta traffic jams are so terrible! I don’t recall them being worse than Bangkok though… but maybe I was just lucky! I may have mentioned to you Indah… Jakarta reminds me of Mumbai – the traffic and the inequality… and the flooding during the rains (though in Mumbai it happens in different months). I do like the food though. I wonder if the origin of the term “bajaj” is from India?

    • Then you were lucky 🙂 I always trapped very long in Jakarta’s traffic jams. Totally agree, the food in Jakarta is good – I can’t complain about it, there are always lots of options and delicious.
      Yup, Bajaj name came from the famous Indian’s auto company. So it started tens years ago that Indonesia imported the auto rickshaws from Bajaj company in India to be used as affordable public transports in Jakarta. The auto rickshaw kept being called as Bajaj locally despite the fact that now there is an Indonesian company manufacture the auto rickshaw for Jakarta.. 😀 😀

  3. Hello Indah,
    Thank you for sharing the views (photos) and your honest thoughts of this fascinating city. I agree that the gap between rich and poor is striking, even more so in ‘developing’ cities. There are quite some contrasts in Tokyo too. As always, I enjoy your writing and photography very much 🙂
    Best wishes,
    Takami

  4. Every place has some disadvantages. The developing countries of Asia are facing a lot of problems, still I find them beautiful. My country, India, is suffering from pollution, corruption and all other possible ‘tions’, still to me, it’s beautiful. 🙂 I can so much relate with this post, Indah 🙂 …very well written with brilliant photographs as always.

  5. I can see how Jakarta would be hard to love. Realistically, I wonder what can be done for it since so much is under sea level. In the end, I do think it is a good place to spend a day or two in Indonesia because the people are friendly, it is a safe big city and there is a variety of great places to eat.

    • There are times that I do miss Jakarta, I always love Jakarta’s food – the Betawi cuisine is delicious and unique. I am not sure how they can resolve the flooding issue quickly – it needs lots of money investment for sure.
      I will recommend if about to visit Jakarta, that it is better to visit the city after visiting other places in Indonesia, especially if the traveler has already had long flight just to reach Jakarta. In my experience it was very frustrating to experience hours of traffic jams after long flight from Europe. – hm, maybe I should add this on my recommendation on the post 😀 – Thanks so much Jeff!!

  6. Wow, you do make it hard to consider adding Jakarta to an itinerary. Maybe we should all visit just to get a glimpse of where much of the world is headed. Thanks for the intro to this fascinating part of the world.

    • 😀 the city itself has its own charm, and the local food is certainly a must try when in Jakarta..the flooding and the traffic jams just extra challenges to make the travel more fascinating or could also be stressful 😀

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