First dive trip of the year—officially checked off the list!

The destination was both unexpected and nostalgic: the Gili Islands (Indonesia). After two decades, setting foot here again felt like revisiting an old travel diary—some stories remained unchanged, while new chapters had been added.

Nestled between Bali and Lombok, the Gili Islands consist of Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno, and Gili Air. These three islands sit close together, making it easy to dive around all of them. Twenty years ago, my base was Gili Trawangan; this time, I opted for Gili Air, just a ten-minute boat ride from Lombok.

Diving in the Gilis remains underrated. Turtles, octopuses, cuttlefish, and sharks made daily appearances, like an oceanic greatest hits playlist playing on repeat. Each descent was smooth, offering a mix of thrill and familiarity in an underwater world that still knows how to impress.

Above the surface, the no-motor-vehicle policy is still in place, preserving the islands’ signature charm. However, Gili Air now has electric motorbikes, officially for business use. Coming from Jakarta, where fresh air is more of a luxury than a given, breathing here felt like a full system reset.

One thing striking about Gili Islands’ character is its abundance of cats. They’re everywhere—lounging on café chairs, napping under palm trees, or casually strolling through the sandy streets like they own the place. With no cars to dodge and plenty of human admirers, island life seems to suit them perfectly.

With the fasting month in full swing, domestic tourists were noticeably absent, creating a rare kind of tranquility. No crowds, no revving engines—just the sound of waves and the occasional bicycle bell. Island life at its best.

This trip was also a reminder that small sustainability efforts can make a big impact. The absence of gasoline-powered vehicles keeps the air noticeably cleaner, and if the same approach were applied to boats, the results could be even better. The Gilis quietly prove that a little effort goes a long way.

This return was long overdue. Next time, I won’t wait another 20 years.